Sunday, July 31, 2011

The Visa Adventure

So, yes, this makes 3 posts in one day. I posted my summary of Thursday and Friday earlier today and just posted my "Meet the Team" post for the day, spotlighting Pete Harris. Now I'm finishing my catch-up work by posting for yesterday and today!

If you remember from the Thurs/Fri post, I was very sick all night between Thurs and Fri and into Friday morning. I was wiped out all day and continued to sleep through the night! Luckily, Saturday morning found me feeling much, much better. The queasiness was all gone and I was just a little worn out still and definitely hungry (since all I'd eaten on Friday was a couple soda crackers)! Encouraged by my good turn of health, I was back on my feet for another Saturday in my orange adventure pants! For those new to the blog, Saturday and Sunday are our "days off" each week. Additionally, throughout our 6 week stay, we get 2 additional "vacation days" which I have not used yet (but a certain commemoration approaches this week that may merit the use of such a day...). We often use our Saturdays for exciting adventures here in Central America! Yesterday was no exception and indeed had another purpose as well. We needed to renew our passport visas. This can be done in two ways: go to the embassy in Belmopan or leave the country for at least a few hours. Since we live ridiculously close to the Guatemalan border anyway, we chose the latter and spent the day in Guatemala!

 Here I am in the "no man's land" between Belize and Guatemala. Click the pic to see the blue "Bienvenidos A Guatemala" sign!

Basic thoughts on Guatemala:

*Much more militarized. Lots more cops with big guns than Belize has. Sorry, didn't think it wise to take pictures of Guatemalan cops with guns.
*The same poverty I see and fight in Belize also exists in Guatemala. Very similar, in fact. However...
*Though they have the same degree of poverty in many areas, they also have much more development. Let me illustrate these two points:

Besides being a sweet (albeit poorly lit) gangsta pic of me, if you look behind me at the river's edge you'll see some crude little huts with rock on little tables. This is where the women come to wash clothes, beating them against the rocks with other smaller rocks and rinsing them in the river. This is just like Belize, where I see the same thing in Succotz every day. In fact, in Succotz I've never actually seen little huts like this--just the big rocks and the women pounding away. However...
Guatemala clearly sets itself apart as more developed than Belize with shopping mall complexes like this one. I have never seen any shopping centers like this at all in Belize or even a building this modern for any purpose! It was actually quite an awakening seeing buildings like this in Guatemala and realizing that I haven't seen a single building in Belize that looks younger than ME, except for the LDS chapel in Succotz. Even other buildings I've seen which I know are relatively new still LOOK very old as they rely on old forms of building and architecture. Many of them are not hurricane proof and many are falling apart. It may seem like a delightful little splurge of romanticism at first to come to Belize and feel like you've traveled back 40 years in time, but as reality sets in it's just downright sad. These are very smart people who want the same opportunities we have and yet are held back by immense lack of resources to get them there. Anyway, this is a weekend post, so I'll get off my soap box now because weekend posts are supposed to be about adventures!

We started our day in the island-city of Flores, Guatemala. This is a major tourist town that is fun because it is its own little island and is filled with lots of little restaurants and gift shops. I felt a lot richer in Guatemala since the Guatemalan Quetzal is worth a lot less than the US dollar. Where the Belizean currency trades at a simple 2:1 with US currency, Quetzales trade at 7.5:1, so a single Quetzal is worth about 13 cents (or about a shilling in Belize money, but not if you trade Belize money straight to Quetzales as they trade at a lower rate than US dollars). So, if you come with $100 US, you will be given Q750 and feel a lot richer! Furthermore, the prices at the little shops are a little better than those in Belize and the people are a little easier to talk down in price. I felt pretty good about some of the price negotiations I managed to pull off when buying some souvenirs for my family members. 

 The mainland from the island of Flores.

 In a photo that is unfortunately victim to poor lighting choices, Maren and Ashley pose with this interesting statue thing.

Guatemalan grub! I actually couldn't eat all of it since my stomach was still somewhat recovering from a day of weirdness. Also, the flip-side to seeming a lot richer because of the exchange rate is that the prices also seem much higher. For example, this burrito is Q44. If you think in dollars, that's outrageous, but in Quetzales it really isn't that bad for a nice meal (especially since it originally had these yummy spicy chips with it that were devoured already before I thought to take a picture). In US money it would be slightly less than a $6 meal altogether and it was from a really nice restaurant, so it was a good price. 

Anyway, from Flores we headed to our primary destination: Tikal! We first did a little zip line adventure in the jungle area just outside Tikal. Most of the pictures from that part of the day are on other cameras I haven't taken the pictures from yet, but I have a few:

 Here I am in full zip-line gear!

These little orange centipedes were everywhere in the jungle!

Can you find the spider monkeys?

After our zip-lining jungle adventure, we entered the Tikal national park, which is also in very thick jungle. This was absolutely indescribable! I took nearly a hundred pictures, so I clearly can't post them all, but I'll put some of my favorites up. Basically, when I visited the ruins at Xunantunich a few weeks ago, it was pretty awesome, but this is a whole new league! Let's just say that Xunantunich is to Tikal as the theme park rides at the county fair are to Disney World! In fact, Tikal is nearly as big as Disney World altogether and you'd have to be there a week to really see everything. We saw most of the major temples and lots of the smaller ones and other ancient city buildings like the acropolises where the royals lived and had their political offices. The entire time the eerie haunting cries of the howler monkeys echoed through the jungle--I must say that they make the most unsettling growls I've ever heard! But now, on to a sampling of pictures:

So, five major temples have been excavated so far at Tikal. They are numbered by order of excavation. This is "Temple 2." Several hundred smaller buildings and temples have been excavated either partially or completely and TONS more are waiting to be excavated. You can see lots of mounds with trees growing out of them and bits of building sticking out all over the place, awaiting future attention from the archaeologists.

 Temple 1, first excavated and shortest of the 5 major temples.

One of the sacrificial altars, against the backdrop of other monuments, perhaps with ritual significance.

Detailed view of one of the monuments.

View of the North Acropolis from the top of Temple 1

We spent a good deal of time exploring the Central Acropolis--a complex of housing and offices for nobles and leaders. In the second picture above, Temple 2 looms in the background. Originally, additional wooden and thatch structures would have been build on top of and around these buildings.

 In one of the rooms of the central acropolis, presumably the bed chamber of some nobleman.

He had a nice jungle view through his window!

Originally, all the buildings were painted red. This is one of the few spots that still retains any traces of that ancient red pigment.

Like I said, there is still lots of excavation going on and tons of mounds that haven't been touched. Here is a project currently underway.

Here is Temple 5, the most recently excavated of the larger temples. Nearby, there was a display documenting the excavation process, including this picture from early on in the process when it was mostly still covered in trees and only the top was dug out:
Many structures there still are completely covered like this. In fact, the right side of temple 5 still is. Let me show you...

Here is the completely excavated right side of the temple, contrasted with...

...this still completely overgrown left side with trees coming out!

This small temple--one of seven right in a row--has been adorned in a thatched overhanging much like those which originally adorned most if not all of these ancient structures.

This is called the "Lost World" pyramid and isn't considered one of the major numbered temples (I don't know why). It's claim to fame is that it is the oldest major structure in Tikal, dating back to 200 AD. The gringo in front with the orange adventure pants is its sacred guardian, looking rather threatening with that palm branch! :-P

From the "Lost World" we got our first glimpse of what would be the climax of our journey--temple 4, the tallest ancient American structure still standing not just in Tikal or Guatemala, but anywhere! We started our journey for this great temple, but on the way...

...we found these holes in the ground! Of course, they begged to be explored, so we climbed in and discovered...

...sets of 5 branching cubby holes in each tunnel. It was actually pitch black, but luckily my phone has a fantastic flashlight that also serves as the flash for the camera which took this picture of one of the cubby holes. Each hole was about 3.5 feet wide and some of the sets of cubby holes were connected. We made a few guesses as to their purpose and one of our theories was later confirmed by one of the park employees, who told us that these were storage cellars for the Mayas and many of them were found with objects inside that have been removed to study and to protect from looters.

Finally, after a few other fun diversions, we made it to the base of temple 4. At first we didn't realize this fact because it just looked like a big grassy hill with a staircase:
What you're seeing is actually not a hill, but the temple itself and the staircase (which makes about 6 switchbacks on the way up) takes you to the top of it. Only the very top portion has ever been excavated of this enormous temple, and you don't realize the fact that you are actually climbing the temple until all of the sudden the top portion suddenly appears as you come around a switchback in the staircase:

So here is the excavated portion, from the side where you enter at top after climbing all along the BACK of the pyramid. Once you come around to the front of the pyramid at top, you immediately gasp as you are met with this arresting view:

You can clearly see temples 1-3 (the really prominent one is #3) and if you click to make it bigger you may catch the top of 5 peeking behind that big mound, which is full of more ruins awaiting excavation. Even further right you can see the "lost world" temple peeking out. Tons of ruins lie between each of these bigger structures, like the small temple and the acropolis shown above. We saw so few of the ruins there in the 3 hours we spent in Tikal. You could easily spend a week and not see everything. By the way, does this view look familiar? You may have seen it before in very popular movie...

Yes, this is Yavin 4 at the end of the original Star Wars film, where the Millenium Falcon is being signalled to fly in at the tallest temple in Tikal, where the interior will be substituted with a Hollywood set at which Princess Leia will smile at Luke, Han, and Chewie and put medals on them. When Star Wars was filmed, the top of temple 4 had just barely been excavated and George Lucas saw it as a fantastic view to serve as an exotic alien background, which his audience fully assumed it was! By the way, when the dude in the helmet turns around...

...he is revealed to actually be me in disguise! :)

I'll let that picture serve as an adequate conclusion to my adventure in Tikal. From there we headed back to Belize, which ironically feels like "Home Sweet Home" even though I'm just as much as foreigner here as in Guatemala! It felt like that moment near the end of The Emperor's New Groove where they're trying all the potions on Kuzco. After changing into a bunch of different animals he is changed to a llama--like he has been most of the film--and says, "Yay! I'm a llama again! Wait..." We were all like, "Yay, we're home to Belize again! Wait..." And yet, Belize becomes part of my home more and more each day that I'm here. As someone who's moved around a lot in my life, I always am unsure what to say when people ask "Where are you from?" Do they mean currently or recently or where I was born or where my family currently lives or where I've lived longest? All those questions have different answers! I think I've come to conclude that throughout my life I've simply acquired multiple "homes." Now, I don't use the word loosely enough to mean anywhere I've ever been, but certainly to describe places my heart is especially attached to. Provo, Orem, Washington, Wisconsin, Florida, Colorado, Belize... they all collectively represent home to me, some more than others. Even specific buildings resonate as "home" to me, like my house here in Belize, or my high school, or my family's house in Longmont, or BYU campus. On the other hand, there are plenty of places I've visited and absolutely loved--such as Guatemala--but they aren't home.

So, that was my Saturday. Sunday, in a nutshell, was relaxing. Church was great and in the afternoon I did a lot of blog catch-up and scripture study. In the evening the team all got together in the lounge/family room and sang hymns. It was great. Also, this week I remembered to take a picture of the the little building which serves as a chapel in Santa Elena:

 The lower half of this house is where the relief society and primary meet. Notice that there is a Spanish sign on the right side of the building and English on the left. The upper half of the building is someone's apartment.

The wooden structure to the right of the building was added on to serve as the chapel and also is used for Sunday School and Elder's Quorum. They are trying very hard to increase attendance so that they can qualify for a real chapel like the ones nearby in San Ignacio and Succotz. The one in San Ignacio was the first real LDS chapel built in Belize back in 1987!

One of the exciting topics discussed Sunday was the upcoming dedication of the San Salvador, El Salvador temple which will occur my last Sunday here. This will be the new temple for saints in Belize. Even though Guatemala City is closer, political relations between Belize and Guatemala are tense so it is easier to make extended temple visits in El Salvador. They will be broadcasting the dedication at the San Ignacio building and I'm going to be talking with President Pinelo (the Branch President in Santa Elena) this week to get the special dedication recommend required to attend. Very exciting!

Meet the Team Part Three: Pete Harris

Welcome to part three of my continuing series spotlighting each member of the team! Today's spotlight:

PETE HARRIS
Here's a rather artsy pic of my pal Pete, looking good in my nerd sunglasses.

Pete is from La Grande, Oregon (that's in the eastern part that nobody's ever been to). He is strong, smart, and efficient. He knows the old animated "Peter Pan" basically by memory and can sound exactly like Captain Hook (to a scary degree in fact). He served a mission for the LDS Church in Argentina and is thus fluent in Spanish, which he teaches at the MTC in Provo. He is double majoring in Spanish and Public Health at BYU.

He leads out on our health-related projects, like the Loma Luz hospital project where we are building a new lab. This week he lead a very successful public health expo which lead to well over a hundred people getting free diabetes testing. He also is helping with the soilet project and the orphanage project. Honestly, other than sharing a bedroom with him and seeing him in the evening and on our weekend adventures, the orphanage is the only project I ever see him at. We are always otherwise working in completely different places all the time! But, this is good as it shows how diverse the talents of our team are. I work a lot on business and cash flow projects which attack poverty at its source, while he does a lot of projects that deal with the horrible effects poverty causes to public health. We both battle poverty from different angles which is fantastic!

Three cheers for Pete "Captain Hook" Harris!

Thursday and Friday: Iguanas and Illness

So, as you may have noticed, I have gone over 3 days without posting. :-/ This was not preferred, but will be explained as you read. I will be doing my catch-up work in 2 main installments. This post will cover Thursday and Friday and then I'll write another one to cover yesterday and today. I might write a few more "meet the team" posts in between.

So, let's begin with Thursday! Allow me to preface this day by reassuring you faithful readers out there who may have noticed a brief hiatus on this blog from my formerly standard "Can you find the iguana?" feature; this post should more than make up for the recent lack because in the evening after the work day was over we visited an iguana nursery at the San Ignacio resort where they help raise iguanas for re-population (they are over-hunted for their meat and skins). Perhaps for the remainder of this post, the real question should be: How MANY iguanas can you find? Rather than post them all at once, I'll just spread them throughout the post, starting with this one:

Fun iguana fact #1: Belizeans consider male and female iguanas to be 2 different things. Females are called iguanas and males are called garrobos. This is Bradford, and he is a garrobo.
(By the way, don't fall behind in counting iguanas. This picture has 3!)

Anyway, besides ending the day with an iguana nursery, Thursday was an INCREDIBLE day for the projects I'm leading, as I'll now tell you:

We began the day as 6 of us traveled to Succotz where we broke into pairs and continued to "tract" out the village of Succotz to gather information on all the businesses there. This has been quite the informative project; to our knowledge, it is the most thorough profiling of a single village in Belize ever made to date. While we have very specific immediate objectives for how we will use this information to help adjust and improve the revenue flow to the village, I'm beginning to see as I sort through all of it just how much further use it could serve for future understanding of the economics of small Central American villages and the poverty problems that exist in them. It could be used not only to help Succotz in the future but might give insight into possible solutions that could be applied to other communities. It is quite exciting! Jake and I were "companions" for the morning. Let me show you in pictures just a few of the things we found in Succotz:

This is Glenda's tortillaria. She makes her tortillas fresh right there and you can buy them as she makes them. There's a good handful of little open tortilla shops like this in Succotz. For example...

...this one belongs to Natalie, who uses an adobe stove made in the design introduced to Succotz village by HELP International earlier this summer!

Fun iguana fact #2: Male iguanas change color during mating season from green to a black and orange pattern. Unfortunately, it isn't quite that time of year, so all the iguanas you'll see in this post are green.

Here I am with Natalie, explaining our information collecting project to her, pointing out where her house is on the map we are creating for the village.

These are Natalie's 3 daughters. You might recognize Jewel, the one in the middle, because a close-up picture of her cute face was featured quite memorably in the fundraising video I made a few months back before I'd ever met her or even come to Belize! This is not the first time I've met people who were featured in that video and it's always somewhat surreal to do so, knowing that I'd read about their stories and studied their faces months before coming here and actually meeting them!

Anyway, moving on to other things in Succotz:

This is the police station... at least downstairs. The upstairs might be residential since there are clothes hanging out to dry that don't look like the standard issue uniforms of Belize's finest.

This is the post office. There is no mail delivery from house to house in Succotz. All the mail comes here and then people just come and get whatever has their name on it.

The iguana at center is Gomez, the dominant garrobo of the nursery.
Fun iguana fact #3: iguanas, like cats, always land on their feet. Cats use their whiskers when in free fall to gather their bearings and come out on their feet. Iguanas use the ridges on their backs to do the same thing. When escaping a predator, an iguana can simply free fall 90 feet from a rainforest tree, land on its feet and be just fine!!!

Here's a purified water store in Succotz.

This building seems normal and unassuming enough, right? Well, inside...

...we met a sweet Master's student from the University of Pennsylvania who's part of a team studying all these ancient Mayan artifacts recovered near Xunantunich! We had no idea that any US collegiate organizations had set up camp in Succotz. This is a major asset, especially since they said tourists were welcome to come by and take a look at what they were doing. She also told us that they were interested in helping us in getting more funding for Succotz and gave us some great leads and information.

Fun iguana fact #4: male iguanas "fight" primarily by puffing their dewlap (large pouch on their face) until one backs down. Very rarely do they resort to physical violence.

We found TONS of tiny little snack shops (or sheds, rather) like this one...

...and this one...

...and this one. I could keep going, but I think you get the picture(s)! ;) On a more unique note...

...we found an INCREDIBLE artist who makes these carvings entirely by hand with no power tools whatsoever. He makes custom engravings in Mayan style. I have seen plenty of gift shops offering Mayan-themed carvings, but nothing as fantastic as this work. I'm going to be working a little more closely with him on getting his own business going, so you'll hear more about "Jorge the Carver" in the future. :)

Well, after some very successful information gathering in Succotz, we met up with the other "companionships" at Benny's restaurant, definitely the most successful business in Succotz and a great place for an affordable and delicious lunch! While there, we saw this girl and her pet parrot:


That's all I'll post for today on the Succotz project, but as you can tell, our thorough research is coming along very nicely! Now, before I transition to the next part of my Thursday work, let's have another iguana pic:

BABY IGUANAS! (This was, after all, an iguana nursery!)

Anyway, after tracting Succotz in the morning I was able to do something quite important in regards to the Rainforest Haven Resort project... visit the resort for the first time! So far my consulting on this project has been entirely based on pictures and information. Being able to go and see the property myself was very helpful! In case you are wondering more about the objective of this project, let me explain: Jorge and Shamira are our current landlords at the building we rent at. They are wonderful middle-income people who often engage in locally started non-profit organization work. They have hit some hard financial times personally but have acquired some property that was developed into a resort that never actually opened or took off due to some poor decisions on the part of the former owners. We are helping them turn a financial burden into a profitable venture by helping them get the resort going. By helping them, we not only strengthen HELP International's ties with an important partner, but we enable those in the community who are taking their own initiative to fight poverty locally, help those who will be employed by the resort, and feed other local growing businesses dependent upon the tourism industry (a major anti-poverty weapon in Belize) specifically helping the community of Bullet Tree Falls Village where the resort is located. I helped do consulting on this project my first working day in Belize (see the post for Thursday, July 14, titled "Jumping In"). Here's some pictures of the still somewhat unfinished resort that I took while I was there, interlaced, of course, with some more iguanas!

One of the 2 private Cabanas that will be available for rent.

There's a nice little bar and restaurant already built...

...though the kitchen could use some work!

The iguana tour guide just started throwing baby iguanas on us!
Back to Rainforest Haven...

Viewed through some scenic vines, this is the largest residence for rent at the resort. Very spacious yet hidden away. My personal favorite.

This building has three separate rooms: One where the caretaker lives, another small room on the lower floor for a single visitor, and a larger family-size room for rent on the upper floor.

If an iguana in the hand is worth 2 in the bushel, are 2 in the hand worth 4 in the bushel?
I think so.

Several mounds like this exist along the back of the property. The former owners used them as a trash dump spot. This is unfortunate since it was recently discovered that they are in fact...

...markers for unexcavated Mayan grave sites! We're going to be contacting NICH about this (of course, so far my [attempted] dealings with NICH have been less than satisfactory).

So, that's an intro to Rainforest Haven. Lots more pictures to come later this week since a lot of the team is going to stay the night there on Wednesday so we can do some cleaning and a photo-shoot. Following this iguana pic, I have one more project to comment on to report on Thursday.

How is counting iguanas coming?

With the last hour of our day before dinner on Thursday, Maren, Katie, Megan, and I went worm hunting! We need earth worms for a project called a "soilet" that Katie is leading. It is a special replacement for a septic tank which uses soil, vermiculture, and a system of filters to turn waste from an outhouse into recyclable by-products. We are repairing one of these and building a new one. But first, we need worms!!! Unfortunately, I only got these 2 lame pictures from the worm excursion because by the time we found some, my hands were all gross and I didn't want to touch my camera! However, I'll have you know that I found the very first worm! :)

Worm hunting!

So, that was my Thursday. Now, you're probably thinking, "wasn't he going to post about Thursday AND Friday in this post? This is already pretty long!" Well, fear not. Friday is very easy and can be summed up in a paragraph (the very same paragraph you are already reading!). On Thursday night, as I was just starting to blog about my day I started to feel rather nauseous. So, I put down my laptop for the night without finishing the post you are now reading. Two hours later I started throwing up. Friday I was wiped out all day with food poisoning. Threw up a total of 9 times during the ordeal. Slept on and off all day Friday and through the night, luckily feeling much better on Saturday morning. The team was wonderful, buying some soda crackers and ginger ale for me and helping make sure everyone was quiet all day. They are so awesome! It was not a pleasant day, but at least it's quick and easy to blog about! :)
Now, before I finish I'll give you one last iguana pic (I COULD give you 40!):


Do you think Jake likes baby iguanas?
I think he does. :)

P.S. How many iguanas did you find?

Be honest.

You should have found 45.

;)